Not so bloody magic!!!

03:00 awake - bloody frozen!!

07:00 no hot water - cold shower!!

07:05 on the spot jogging to try and warm up!!

07:05:02 wife points out at that me putting at least a pair of pants on would be of value (to both of us!!)

08:00 breakfast choice - vegetable vomit soup or rubber toast!!

09:00 intestines start to brew!!

10:00 - 15:00 Indian site seeing at its best! I know there are about a trillion people in this place but how dare they be at the same place at the same time in their own country as me!!

the q for the bus

10:00 - 15:00 intestinal indignation builds!!

16:00 body attempts to re-enact shuttle lift-off on the lavvy!!

16:45 long socks, thermals, jumper and bed!!!

20:00 waft of dinner! Bluegh!!

20:05 asleep!!

it reads "as close to heaven as it gets"! not today

"no highs without the lows!!"

Kerala Bound

After a long flight wedged next to a circumferentially challenged gentleman with armpits wafting a violent essence jolting my senses to the joys of the land of sun, spice and sweat we arrive in Kerala. The first laugh is that our driver had to be called “Ravi” the irony of which will not be lost on some of our buddies who are all too aware of my Indian alter ego!!

Having mostly experienced travel in the north of India rumours that the south would be a great deal less frenetic appear to be true.  There is still the same noise and stares (Kim put some clothes on!) and plastic waste at every turn but I am pleasantly surprised by the civility of the welcome to another part of this country with which I have such an affinity. Somehow the people and the place seem more tranquil and less in your face than their northern cousins other than a freaky Santa trying to force us to dance to a live choral rendition of “Hark the Herald” in the hotel garden. A fine opportunity to embarrass my family but just a wee bit too sober to comply!

With a couple of nights in Cochin we take the inevitable well worn trails around the local sights surprisingly highlighted by a visit to the local dhobikhana – a traditional Indian laundry complete with a team of workers washing the local hotel laundry by hand, sun dried and pressed with ridiculously heavy charcoal fuelled irons. The day was rounded off with a sunset boat trip around the bay which, if you managed to ignore the massive container terminal and ships, focussing instead on the traditional Chinese fishing nets silhouetted against the setting sun, was actually a really lovely end to our day.

We head out to rise into the Western Ghats in typical Formula 1 style but unfortunately for some a little too bendy and nauseating! (Woops Baa! where’s the sick bag!) Why is it that here, overtaking 3 cars and a crowded bus on a blind bend not to mention the sheer drop, raises no more than a smile rather than blind panic it would normally invoke? We rise through the lush banana, pineapple, rubber and spice plantations to reach the higher slopes painted with acre upon acre of pristine hand manicured tea bushes. It is an absolutely stunning sight and the thought of teams of workers perpetually picking over these bushes on steep slopes raises a new level of respect for the humble cup of tea!   

Past Munnar, 6500ft up and a final jeep trip along what used to be a road and is now more a 4-wheel drive gift experience we arrive at an eerily tranquil Camp Noel - thanks Nisha and Tom for advising us to bring some warm clothes! It’s going to be a cold one!! - BUT we’ve got a very spicy curry round a log fire - Magic!